The redesign of this product to suit modern building boards has resulted in stronger, straighter, crack—free internal corners being produced ready for painting. Thanks to all who responded. I think I have installed one once, so not an expert but I asked a plasterer and he told me to use c cement. It helps if both sides of the wall have the recess in the corner. Once it is set, you use base and top coat as for everything else. Similar Threads Taping internal corner that's very close to external corner bead?
External angle bead for a tiled corner? By Duff in forum Plastering. Internal plasterboard splitting on 90 degree corner, how do i fix? By crid04 in forum Plastering. Fibre tape on internal plasterboard corner - stuffed up! By TCX in forum Plastering. The time now is AM. I am a : Builder. Design Professional. Home Owner. Use Gyprock for. Club Gyprock. Find a Supplier Find your nearest Gyprock plasterboard specialist outlets and other retailers that stock Gyprock products. Dont use mesh, its rubbish, more likely to crack Put slightly more compound under the tape, you can always push the excess compound out along the joint when you bed the tape with the trowel, wont bubble this way Bed the joint with compound, flatten it off, pre cut the paper tape to length, get the tape started in the joint about mm long, while holding the tape in one hand feeding, trowel along the joint, keeping the tape feeding straight, this way you push all the excess compound out as you go and the tape is bedded properly, go over the joint again with more compound if needed straight away, then 2 more coats fo plaster as manufacturers rec.
If you do get bubbles later let them dry, cut them out and fill Or get someone else to do it and you can blame them. Thanks for the help guys. I think pweedas has hit the nail n the head. I'll have to redo a bit to test and see. Only use paper tape in internal corners. Or you can also use metal internal corners Use a sloppy mix to bed the paper tape in the corner using the corner tool Always use mesh tape on all rebated and butt joints.
I use mesh tape on all joints. External joints use the bead. Paper tape, will bubble if mixture is drying as it is applying. As Kiterider said , use mesh tape, apply a thin coat , then feed and press the mesh on using a wide paint scraper , using this method will alleviate the bubbling mesh is much easier and make the joining process of joining correctly very important because not right means cracking later much easier , then give a wipe , Gently but firmly , if that makes sense with a flat square trowell.
There is a trowell with a concave in the working edge which applies more product to the centre of the trowell when you apply the finish coat, this means you have a bit of coverage to sand , and not sand back to the mesh -- not a good look. Hope this helps If more info required pm me Regards cassa.
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